Desert Bloom Skincare

How to get rid of dark circles under eyes

Dr. Natalya Borakowski, NMD
Feb 21, 2023 · 3 min read FAQs
How to get rid of dark circles under eyes

This article provides tips and information on how to effectively get rid of dark circles under the eyes. It covers various causes of dark circles, such as genetics, lack of sleep, and allergies, and offers solutions to address each of these causes. The article also discusses different treatments and remedies that can help reduce the appearance of dark circles, including topical creams, eye masks, and lifestyle changes.

Why Dark Circles Are Four Different Problems

Here is something the beauty industry would rather you not notice: “dark circles” is not one thing. It is four different things that happen to look similar in a bathroom mirror — and they need four different solutions. Treating them all the same way is exactly why most people have a drawer full of eye creams that did absolutely nothing.

This guide is about what actually works — sorted by type, by skin tone, and by what you can do at home versus what genuinely requires clinical help. We’ll also cross-link to our full dark circles concern hub if you want to go deeper on anatomy, causes, and candidacy for each treatment type.

Dark Circles at a Glance

4 Types
Pigmented (melanin, sun, genetics) · Vascular (blood vessels, allergies) · Hollow / tear trough (volume loss) · Lifestyle (sleep, dehydration)
At-Home Options
Vitamin C + niacinamide (pigment) · Retinol (skin thickness) · Peptides (collagen) · Daily SPF · Sleep + allergy management
In-Clinic Options
Photo Facial IPL (Fitz I–III, vascular) · PRX-T33 / peels (Fitz IV–VI, pigment) · Tear trough filler (hollow) · RF Microneedling (skin thickness)
What Won't Work
Random eye creams without actives · Laser pigment treatments on darker skin · Fillers for purely pigmented circles · One-size-fits-all approaches

Four Different Problems, Not One

Close-up of under-eye area showing dark circles — treatment options guide

The periorbital area — the skin directly under and around the eye — is the thinnest skin on the face. It has minimal fat, a high density of blood vessels close to the surface, and fewer collagen and elastin fibers than anywhere else. That anatomy alone explains why this area shows so many different kinds of darkness, and why the wrong treatment makes no difference at all.

Pigmented circles are driven by melanin — genetics, sun exposure, post-inflammatory pigmentation. They tend to look brownish, are often symmetrical, and run in families. They are most common in darker Fitzpatrick skin types (IV–VI) and in people of South Asian, Middle Eastern, and East African descent. Vascular circles have a bluish or purplish tint from blood vessels visible through thin skin — often made worse by allergies, nasal congestion, or poor sleep. Hollow or structural circles are not pigment at all: they are shadows created by volume loss in the tear trough and mid-face, which creates a concave groove that casts darkness. And lifestyle circles — fatigue, dehydration, high sodium, alcohol — overlay any of the above and amplify whatever is already there. Most people have a combination. The art is knowing which type dominates.

What You Can Actually Do at Home

Flatlay of at-home under-eye care — cooling eye mask, chamomile tea, cucumber and eye cream

Let’s be honest about what topicals can and can’t do. For lifestyle-driven and mildly pigmented circles, the right skincare routine genuinely moves the needle over weeks to months — not days, not overnight. For hollow tear trough circles caused by volume loss, no serum in the world replaces what anatomy took. That’s just the truth. With that framing in place: here’s what works.

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid, 10–20%) addresses melanin production and brightens existing pigmentation — it’s one of the best-studied actives for hyperpigmentation around the eye. Pair it with niacinamide (5%), which inhibits melanin transfer to skin cells and also reduces vascular redness. Retinol (start low — 0.025% under the eye, skin there can’t handle what your cheek can) gradually thickens the dermis, making blood vessels less visible. Peptides — particularly palmitoyl tripeptide-38 and matrixyl variants — support collagen and may improve skin firmness over time. SPF daily is not optional if you’re treating pigmented circles: sun exposure will undo every other intervention. Beyond products, managing allergies (antihistamines, nasal rinse) addresses a real cause of vascular circles that most eye creams ignore entirely. And sleep — the boring answer — does actually reduce blood vessel dilation and fluid accumulation. Aim for 7–8 hours. Not 5, with a good eye cream.

In-Clinic Options by Type and Tone

Close-up of the under-eye area showing in-clinic treatment targeting for dark circles

This is where type-matching matters most — and where the guidance for darker skin tones is often completely wrong in generic guides online. Photo Facial (IPL) is effective for vascular circles and superficial pigment in lighter skin tones (Fitzpatrick I–III). IPL targets hemoglobin in blood vessels and melanin near the surface — for the right candidate, it can meaningfully reduce the purplish or brownish hue in 2–3 sessions. It is not appropriate for Fitz IV–VI skin: the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is significant and can make things worse. For darker skin tones with pigment circles, the correct path is PRX-T33 (a no-peel chemical treatment that biostimulates without causing surface inflammation), Dermaquest brightening peels formulated for melanin-rich skin, and iontophoresis for targeted ingredient delivery. No laser pigment treatments. That route causes harm, not improvement.

Tear Trough Filler is the most transformative option for structural, hollow circles — but only for that type. Restylane Eyelight and RHA 2 are the appropriate products for this area: they are soft, low-swelling formulations designed for the delicate periorbital anatomy. When the depression is filled correctly, the shadow disappears. It doesn’t “fix” pigment. It doesn’t address vascular circles. It addresses the structural cause specifically. RF Microneedling (we use Virtue RF) is a gradual option that improves skin thickness and collagen density in the periorbital area — it won’t produce overnight results, but over 3 sessions it can measurably reduce the transparency that makes vascular and structural circles visible. Learn more about tear trough filler or visit our dark circles hub.

At-Home vs In-Clinic: What to Expect

At-Home Actives

Best for
Pigment (mild), vascular (mild), lifestyle
Mechanism
Inhibit melanin, thicken dermis, reduce vascular redness
Timeline
6–12 weeks to see shift
Skin tone
All skin tones
Realistic outcome
Moderate improvement; won’t fix hollow circles

Photo Facial (IPL)

Best for
Vascular + pigment, Fitz I–III only
Mechanism
IPL targets hemoglobin + surface melanin
Timeline
2–3 sessions, 4–6 weeks apart
Skin tone
Fitz I–III only
Realistic outcome
Clear reduction in vascular + surface pigment

Tear Trough Filler

Best for
Hollow / structural shadows
Mechanism
HA filler restores tear trough volume
Timeline
Visible same day, settles 2 weeks
Skin tone
All skin tones
Realistic outcome
High-impact for the right candidate

PRX-T33 / Peels

Best for
Pigment, Fitz IV–VI safe
Mechanism
Biostimulation, no surface trauma
Timeline
4–6 sessions, gradual improvement
Skin tone
Fitz III–VI especially
Realistic outcome
Steady brightening without risk of PIH

Typical Resolution Timeline

  1. Week 1–2

    Lifestyle Baseline

    Address sleep, hydration, and allergies first. These contribute to every circle type and removing them clarifies what’s structural vs. fixable by habit.

  2. Week 4–8

    Topical Actives Show Early Effect

    With consistent Vitamin C, niacinamide, and retinol use, mild pigmented and vascular circles begin to lighten. SPF is non-negotiable during this phase.

  3. Month 2–3

    Topical Plateau Assessment

    If improvement has stalled or circles are structural in nature, this is the right moment to assess clinical options. A consultation maps the dominant type and the correct pathway.

  4. Month 3–6

    In-Clinic Results Mature

    IPL series or PRX-T33 sessions are complete. Tear trough filler has fully settled. RF Microneedling collagen response is visible. Most patients see their best outcome at the 3-month follow-up.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I actually get rid of dark circles — or just manage them?
Depends entirely on the type. Lifestyle circles caused by fatigue, dehydration, or allergies can resolve almost completely when you address the root cause. Mildly pigmented circles improve significantly with consistent actives and sun protection over 2–3 months. Hollow, structural circles caused by volume loss require filler — topicals won’t fix anatomy. And genetically deep pigmentation can be managed well but rarely eliminated entirely. Honest answer: most people land somewhere in the ‘significant improvement’ range, not ‘gone.’ And that’s usually enough.
Does the cold spoon trick work?
Briefly, yes — cold constricts blood vessels and temporarily reduces puffiness, which makes vascular circles look slightly lighter for maybe 10–15 minutes. It’s the same mechanism as cold compresses, chilled cucumber, or refrigerated eye masks. It’s real, it’s just temporary, and it addresses the symptom rather than the cause. Fine for a quick fix before a meeting. Not a treatment plan.
I have darker skin. Why does laser not work for my pigmented circles?
Because the devices most commonly used for pigment — IPL, Q-switched lasers, fractional lasers — target melanin. In darker Fitzpatrick skin (IV–VI), the device can’t reliably distinguish between the pigment you’re trying to treat and the melanin in the surrounding skin. The result can be post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation: the circles get darker, not lighter. The correct path for darker skin tones with pigmented circles is non-laser: PRX-T33 biostimulation, Dermaquest brightening peels, and iontophoresis for targeted delivery. Safer, and actually effective.
Will tear trough filler fix my dark circles?
If your circles are primarily hollow and structural — yes, often dramatically. If they’re primarily pigmented or vascular — filler won’t touch the discoloration. It corrects the shadow from the groove; it doesn’t change skin tone. The consultation is where we figure out which is which. Sometimes both are present, which means layered treatment over time.
What filler do you use for tear trough?
We use Restylane Eyelight and RHA 2 — both are soft, low-G-prime formulations designed for this zone. The tear trough is unforgiving: placing the wrong product, too superficially, in the wrong plane causes visible lumps, the Tyndall effect (bluish tint), and prolonged swelling. Product and technique both matter. We don’t use thicker formulations in this zone.
How long until I see results from eye creams?
With active ingredients (Vitamin C, retinol, niacinamide, peptides) used consistently morning and night: 6–8 weeks minimum for pigment changes, 10–12 weeks for meaningful skin thickening from retinol. That’s not a long time — it just feels long when you’re checking the mirror every day. The data on these actives is real. The timeline just requires patience.
I’ve tried everything. What’s actually worth a consultation?
If you’ve had consistent actives for 3 months with SPF and sleep addressed, and circles are still significant — that’s when a clinical assessment is genuinely warranted. We can visually type the circles, assess the tear trough anatomy, check for vascular contribution, and map a specific treatment path. Sometimes the answer is a single filler appointment. Sometimes it’s a series of peels. Occasionally it’s ‘there isn’t a treatment that will change this significantly.’ That conversation is worth having.
“Dark circles are one of those concerns where I spend the most time at consultation just asking questions and looking — because treating the wrong type with the wrong tool is how people end up with a drawer full of products and no results. Once you know what you’re actually dealing with, the path forward is usually much clearer.”
— Dr. Natalya Borakowski, NMD
Dr. Natalya Borakowski, NMD

Medically reviewed by

Dr. Natalya Borakowski, NMD

Founder, Desert Bloom Skincare

Individual results vary. Content is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Clinical content reviewed by Dr. Natalya Borakowski, NMD. Last updated April 2026.

Have a concern like this one?

Start with a screening. We'll tell you whether a procedure is the right tool — and which one.

Visit our Scottsdale aesthetic center

Address

10752 N 89th Place,
Ste 122B · Scottsdale, AZ 85260

Phone: (480) 567-8180

E-mail: info@desertbloomskincare.com

Get directions

Location & directions

Conveniently located in the Shea Corridor of North Scottsdale, within Edwards Professional Park I — minutes from HonorHealth Scottsdale Shea and the Mayo Clinic Scottsdale Campus.

  • From the North / South: Take Loop 101 and exit at E Shea Blvd, just East of the freeway.

  • Parking: Ample free parking directly in front of Suite 122B.

Areas we serve

  • Scottsdale

    North Scottsdale · McCormick Ranch · Gainey Ranch

  • Paradise Valley

  • Cave Creek & Carefree

Book now Call us